Couture Week in Paris has already started. Dior, Givenchy, Armani Privé, Chanel, Elie Saab, Jean Paul Gaultier, Valentino, and first-timer in couture, Giambattista Valli are the big names that have already hit the catwalk. (Headline photo: Dior: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com)
Dior
It is the first Dior couture show after 15 years without John Galliano. Bill Gayten, Galliano's righthand pattern-cutter along with the rest of the Dior team (including Stephen Jones' headpieces, Jeremy Healy's music, Michael Howells' set design, Pat McGrath's makeup, Orlando Pita's hair) introduced an eighties inspired theme filled with pastel colors and black and white vibrant patterns. Inspiration came from people such as, Ettore Sottsass' Memphis Group back in the eighties, Jean-Michel Frank and Jean Dunand, and Jean-Paul Goude. Numerous layers of taffeta, gazar, and organza put together to create jackets, and dresses, pleated skirts, and ruffled collars completed a collection of clothes that could only be described as sculpted.
(Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com)
(Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com)
Giambattista Valli
Giambattista Valli's long-time dream of his very own couture collection is now a reality. Early-1960s couture, Rome’s haute couture Dolce Vita of that period were some of the references the designer used. The collection of fourty four pieces adorned in coral branches, porcelain flower heads, feathers, ruffles and pearls underlined the core of Valli's technique and way of thinking. Colours like white, black, geranium red, and coral orange stole the show, as well as the glamazon chiffon dresses in leopard prints. The golden metal belts were created by Valli’s partner Luigi Scialanga, to resemble "[...] the arms of the man around the waist of the girl,” explained Valli.
(Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com)
(Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com)
Givenchy
If one word can describe Ricardo Tisci's Givenchy Autumn 2011 couture collection is meticulousness. Tisci's couture pieces wanted to exude purity, therefore, the colour palette included white, pale beige, ivory and a hint of gold. The transparent tulle dresses were covered in white beads, fringe, pearls, crystals, plumes and feathers. The extreme work that was put in this collection was evident in the embroidery; one of the dresses was layed with crystals that reflect the light in such a way to resemble the marks of an ostrich skin. Tisci described the effect as “tears of angels.”
(Courtesy of Givenchy)
(Courtesy of Givenchy)
Armani Privé
After the tragic events in Japan, Armani has been financing a UNESCO scholarship program to help child victims of the disaster. So it should come as no surprise that this collection was an homage to Japan. As the designer explained, “Japan has been a great fountain of inspiration to me—the designs, the colors, and the shape." The country's flora (such as roses, cherry blossoms, and chrysanthemums) graced in prints and embroideries the pantsuits and strapless dresses, which in turn were covered in patent-leather bustiers, obi belts, wrap-over closures and kimono-sleeves. Peach and apricot shades livened up the black and gray "canvases", as did Philip Treacy's headpieces which transformed the models into hanging gardens.
(Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com)
(Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com)
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel couture Autumn 2011 collection was all surprises in the materials he used: sequins and flecks of Lurex and trompe l'oeil techniques that were only visible and possible to decode from up close. The key to this collection was that most clothes could be broken down into pieces, three to be exact: a spencer, a bustier, and a pencil skirt. One thing is certain; Whoever can afford to buy one of these pieces will have a variety of options. For example, a dress can be worn long or short, with removable sleeves in tweed or lace and so on and so forth. The colour palette included black, midnight blue, fashion fucshia, and white, along with splashes of metallics. Peplums, pailletees, ostrich plumes, frills and rosettes were also part of this lavish collection that will make clients drool.
(Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com)
(Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com)
(Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com)
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